Trailer braked hitch fitting help

 Hey all,

Trying to get the trailer than is under my project boat over the pits and licenced so that I can more easily (legally) move it around. It is a really solid looking stainless steel trailer so I'm pretty keen to keep it, but don't want to blow too much of my project budget on it. The problem comes in that the trailer (1980s built) was registered under the old rules where gross mass could be up to 1000kg without brakes. Because licence has lapsed a couple of years ago I need to put it over pits, and the new rules require brakes for over 750kg (rig is about 920kg dry). 

I was initially not too worried as I'm handy with the tools and have replaced the whole running gear on my tinny trailer last year. Then I noticed that the hitch was offset downwards (see pic) from the top of the drawbar, and the mounting area is built for an unbraked hitch that is shorter than the braked hitches and has only 2 bolts down the central line rather than 4 (one in each corner) on braked hitches. So basically I need to figure out a way to mount a basic mechanical brake hitch securely to it so that it is level with the top of the drawbar.

Any ideas from some engineering, welding, diy types on the forum? Ideally ones that won't blow my budget out the water (so to speak).

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Posts: 398

Date Joined: 17/07/07

i would probably

Thu, 2013-01-10 17:47

cut a piece of 10mm stainless plate to sit along the centre line of the bolt holes that are there now.cut another piece of stainless plate the shape you need to mount your

tow hitch onto.weld the piece of flat plate onto your tow hitch piece and then sit the whole thing on the trailer and fully weld it on.

probable doesn`t make sense but i can see it in my head LOL!!!!!!

 

Posts: 88

Date Joined: 20/08/10

 Hey Keg, kind of get what

Thu, 2013-01-10 22:33

 Hey Keg, kind of get what you mean. However, the words stainless plate and welding present a problem from a DIY point of view. Was hoping I would be able to sort this myself, but probably going to have to turn it over to a professional and just cough up the cash.

JohnF's picture

Posts: 2836

Date Joined: 07/07/10

Stainless

Thu, 2013-01-10 19:01

Stainless trailer.......Hollywood!!!!!!!!!!

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Boston Whaler 235 Conquest......getting the flogging it was built for.

Posts: 88

Date Joined: 20/08/10

 For sure..... it was built

Thu, 2013-01-10 22:36

 For sure..... it was built in 1983 apparently and still looks like new. Was one of the main reasons that I bought the project boat - trailer alone is probably worth more than I paid for the lot......if only I could licence the f888ing thing!

carnarvonite's picture

Posts: 8669

Date Joined: 24/07/07

Plates

Fri, 2013-01-11 06:56

What you need is 2 pieces of 12mm plate, wouldn't bother with stainless because the hitch won't be stainless either, bottom one to use the same bolt holes for the hitch to secure it to the trailer and the upper one have 4 holes for the new hitch and two large holes to accommodate the bolt heads for the bottom plate so they are concealed between the 2  when all bolted up. Use the two stainless bolts to secure the bottom plate , that way you won't have to worry about them rusting away.

Posts: 88

Date Joined: 20/08/10

That actually sound pretty

Fri, 2013-01-11 21:07

That actually sound pretty good - and you're right, no real difference between attaching mild steel hitch to the stainless or mild steel adapting plate. Might see if I can pick up some suitable steel plate... any ideas on somewhere that I won't have to buy a huge section of plate or long length?

glastronomic's picture

Posts: 892

Date Joined: 16/02/11

You can easily weld "Normal"

Fri, 2013-01-11 09:53

You can easily weld "Normal" steel plate onto SS even with an arc welder, just get the right welding rods.

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Posts: 5803

Date Joined: 18/01/12

 Mild steel or stainless, the

Sun, 2013-01-13 10:29

 Mild steel or stainless, the welding process is identical, just need the correct 316L rods and youd need to buy a packet at couple of hundred bucks maybe

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 Give a man a mask, and he'll show you his true face...

 

 

The older you get the more you realize that no one has a f++king clue what they're doing.

Everyone's just winging it.

 

grayzeee's picture

Posts: 2283

Date Joined: 09/07/09

If you are going to weld a

Fri, 2013-01-11 10:06

If you are going to weld a plate onto the trailer , I would use stainless.

You could tow it down to any fab shop and they'd put a run around it.

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If I spent half as long fishing , as I do reading this bloody forum , I'd be twice the fisherman I am. 

Posts: 136

Date Joined: 03/06/09

Safety chain needs to be AS and welded to trailer

Fri, 2013-01-11 13:23

You might be on to ti but make sure you toss that shackle and get Aust Standard chain welded to the trailer. ASlso need VIN stamped into trailer as well as the VIN plate. Get the VIN plate from Martin's Trailers and then see Fremantle Trailers (O'Connor)  to stamp the trailer ($20).

Posts: 88

Date Joined: 20/08/10

 Thanks prego, yeah realised

Fri, 2013-01-11 21:03

 Thanks prego, yeah realised the u-shackle was not kosha for pits and will need stamped chain. Apparently (think I saw it on Dept for Transport trailer info) you can use something called a Hammer Lock Shackle to attach the safety chain, which would save me having to get it welded to the stainless.

Posts: 398

Date Joined: 17/07/07

if you have

Sun, 2013-01-13 20:15

the ability to cut it to size,i can probably give you a couple of pieces of 10mm steel plate you can work with.if your interested let me know and i

can pm you my number.i don`t know where you are but i`m in wanneroo.

cheers

keg