Technician Engine Analysis Checklist

 

For the rest of the free repot and photos see-

http://www.tongacharter.com/report-alalisis.htm

 

 

By
Captain Scott Fratcher

 

An engine analysis is an advanced system of inspecting our boats
drive train. We perform these tests to help catch pending mechanical
issues before we leave the dock. An analysis is much more comprehensive
than a typical “pre-departure peak” at the engine. We are
going to not only visually inspect our engine, but also take a series
of measurements that become our baseline for future tests. Our goal
is use this engine analysis as a system to help make easy informed decisions
about our boats drive system.

To begin you should have on-hand as much of the following as possible:

• · Camera


• · Notepad


• · Your collection of electrical meters


• · A 0-3 bar pressure gauge (if your engine has a turbo)


• · An infer red temperature gauge


• · Any other special tools you might have


• · A few rags, and spray cleaner

The steps to performing an engine analysis:

1. Visual inspection

2. Pre inspection

3. Bollard pull

4. Analyzing the numbers

 

Visual inspection

This is a general once over of the engine looking for blatant flaws.

Open the engine room door, look, feel and smell

Look for oil drips or other fluid under the engine. Inspect for obvious
cracked hoses. Give a gentle bend where a hose attaches to the engine
and look for cracks in the rubber cover. Check the fan belts for cracks
and loose hose clamps. Grab the alternator pulley and see if it will
spin free on the belt. If it does then the belt is worn or loose.

Feel the inside of the engine room for oil film. Touch the areas of
the engine you can’t see feeling for rust or salt trails.

Smell for any burned chemical type odor. Smells can be difficult to
locate, but in general any burnt, oily, or diesel smells should be searched
out. A good nose can tell the difference between a hot belt and a hot
wire.

Look over the complete engine for oil leaks. Pay particular attention
to the front seal, and the area between the gearbox and engine. Leaks
in the front or rear seal can mean a coming engine rebuild. Inspect
the head to block connection looking for oil or water trails.

Take photos from all angles as a base line for later use.

This is the point where many an engine inspection ends, but in an analysis
we want better scrutiny to help build confidence in our propulsion system.

Our next series of checks focus on fluid inspections

 

Oil

Oil is the lifeblood of our engine. It lubricants, cools and quiets
our engine. But how do we know if the oil is doing its job?

Begin by pulling the dipstick. Smell for signs of diesel odor. Pinch
a small dab of oil between your index finger and thumb and expand slowly
to see how far you can spread the oil before the gap opens. Compare
this gap to new oil and take down the difference for your notes. This
is a crude method of checking viscosity and diesel intrusion.

Open the oil fill and look inside the cap for water droplets, condensation
or worse, a gray gooey substance indicating water penetration into the
oil. Put a small drop of oil on a paper towel and compare it to a new
oil drop. Note the amount of black carbon and any shiny deposits.

A more careful inspection can include an inside look at the oil filter.
Next time you change oil keep the old filter. Leave it to drain upside
down then cut open the canister and look at the inside of element. It’s
the inside that will contain any heavy deposits or worse, metal shavings.
Take photos for later comparison.

Immediately after start up note the oil pressure and again during our
bollard pull test and lastly immediately upon reducing throttle after
our bollard pull test. Does the gauge needle dip? It should remain steady
from start up and through all the following tests. A dipping gauge can
indicate a faulty pressure release, or worse, worn engine bearings.

For the rest of the free repot and photos see-

http://www.tongacharter.com/report-alalisis.htm