Battery placement.
Submitted by iana on Thu, 2012-02-02 17:06
Getting serious about installing dual batteries. Can anyone give me a legitamate reason why I can't install the batteries like so. Looking also at putting the oil tank down there as well. Using above deck compartments to store safety equipment, fenders etc.
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dodgy
Posts: 4578
Date Joined: 01/02/10
Voltage drop will be your
Voltage drop will be your only issue. Really want to try to keep batteries as close to motor and leads as short as possible.
Way of getting around it is to go up a few sizes in cables and make sure your terminals and lugs are in top condition.
Boat will probably ride better without that much weight over the transom too.
Does anyone know where the love of god goes, when the waves turn the minutes to hours?
iana
Posts: 652
Date Joined: 21/09/09
Thanks dodgy
This is a Baron and that cavity is normally where the inboard motor is mounted. My motor is out on a frame, bit like a pod. I think the boat could be trimmed nose down a little. The battery is installed in the compartment on the right in the transom, but it is quite hard to get too. Bit reluctant to alter any glass around this area so the transom is not weakened in anyway.
Mounting the batteries like this just moves the fixed weight a little forward. Using proper sized cable should prevent voltage drop. The weight of two batteries low and on the centre line should only improve stability.
Terry
Posts: 458
Date Joined: 04/12/05
drowning
The major problem that I could see is if you take on a shit load of water like a bigger than expected wave hit you then your battery well will get flooded. If this happens your batteries may well end up under water and being salt water will go dead real quick. No battery = no power = dangerous situation.
I know this may sound extreme....but ?
Up, in a well ventilated position away from water getting on them is the best place for the battery imo.
Terry
Starbug
Posts: 563
Date Joined: 27/08/09
Not the best place for the
Not the best place for the batteries. Batteries hate vibration and jaring. the smoothest ride for them is at the transom. The second problem is in that position they will be subject to splashing or flooding from salt water, which will corode the terminals/lugs and the salt will short the battery and discharge it.
Tomcat
Posts: 614
Date Joined: 24/02/11
I
I would install an isolater so you switch from battery one to battery two
meersy
Posts: 278
Date Joined: 20/04/10
batt location
Mate i have mounted my duel batts in that same spot on my 22ft swift craft as I have also put a hull extention and outboard on it.Volt drop isnt a problem because moving them that much is bugger all, its not as if you are moving them up front,As for water splashes i have mine in marine boxes with a lids on them.The jarring difference between mounted there and at the transome is not enough to cause a problem.My set up is 2yrs old and still going strong. Good luck.
stilly
Posts: 341
Date Joined: 10/08/09
iso switch needed
batteries in series like that is not a good idea both linked will cause both to go flat at the same rate leaving you without a start battery, also as long as your batteries are within 12 odd foot from you motor leads/switch volt drop is null n void
fishy fingers
Posts: 1719
Date Joined: 28/04/07
Not in series
Batteries in series would give you a 24v system.......unless they were 6v batteries they are wired in parralell.
iana
Posts: 652
Date Joined: 21/09/09
Yeah one supporter.
I think that the issue of voltage drop is a bit exagerated. More likely voltage drop is caused by poor and multipule connections. The distance is not that far from the motor. I wonder how many of you have had a wave over the back, been "pooped".
Had a talk with my battery supplier today, calcium batteries i.e. "maintenance free" will resist water entering the battery, and even if submerged for short periods probably will not be effected.
AGM are totally sealed and do not emit gas. So its really only the terminals which are effected. These could be sealed by terminal protective compounds.
Vibration I hadn't thought of. AGM batteries are highly resistant to vibration. It maybe that I will have to have a starting battery, and a "House" battery", this being an AGM battery (house) mounted as shown, and the calcium battery being the starting battery, which I will have to mount deck level at the transom, a sort of compromise.
Rather do it as shown, then I can use the space at the transom for such things as fenders and other light bulky items and so tidy up the boat.
iana
Posts: 652
Date Joined: 21/09/09
That picture is one I quicly
That picture is one I quicly pinched from the net, and edited to illustrate my intension, the wiring hasn't been considered yet. I am just getting ideas and opinions to help me decide what is the best course to take. So of course I will have isolator switches, fuses etc, but thats the easy bit.
stilly
Posts: 341
Date Joined: 10/08/09
that pic
is fine bar wiring, get a switch, batt 1 starting, batt 2 accessories, have switch on both while running around, switch 2 for anchor, cant go wrong, as for being worried about volt drop........that would come into play if you mounted your batteries in your anchor well!
stilly
Posts: 341
Date Joined: 10/08/09
sorry
your spot on my bad
nico
Posts: 226
Date Joined: 17/08/10
Iana i am surprised you aked
Iana i am surprised you aked this question you are quiet knowledgable when it comes to boats.This position will be fine definatally help [ lcg ] longer tudial centre of gravity i would advise gel Batteries no plates to shake apart and acid to spill a slighter larger set of leads to the engine make sure the hatch does not dop water straight on to the terminals a set of batt boxes with a few vents in the side is the go. As far as the oil bottle i would not think so best to talk to a techy on that one. i have done a lot of mid ship battery set ups on Bertram 25 and formula 233 with no problems.
In Mocean